Cape Town, Glorious Cape Town Continued!

More photos!!

Cape Town, Glorious Cape Town

I don't have words for it, so will just post some photos!

Where Are We???

As I wrote about in the "Out of Africa" post, Cape Town is sooo incredibly different than the Africa I've been traveling through. But then again, just when I'm feeling like I'm back in the states, there will be some random experience that reminds me although there are many more modern comforts here, it's still Africa!

SOME REASONS CAPE TOWN IS NOT LIKE THE REST OF AFRICA:

1. Here you get napkins with meals -- even nice cloth napkins in most restaurants!

2. The roads are solid, smooth pavement -- haven't seen a single pothole!

3. Credit cards are accepted everywhere, and there aren't additional fees for wanting to use them.

4. You can use the water from the bathroom sink to brush your teeth -- no need to have bottled water with you at all times!

5. My U.S. accent is fairly well understood. (In East Africa, I'd often get confused stares, and if I'd repeat myself with an attempt at a British accent, I'd have a much better chance of being understood b/c they all speak British English!)

6. Every kind of U.S. store and brand is here -- from the malls to the grocery stores!

7. The white people I met living in East Africa seemed to be expats who either worked with their government (military, foreign service posts, etc.), or with an NGO or other aid-related org. Cape Town is truly a mixed society, and given the beauty of this place, I can understand why the Dutch and British settlers never left! (Much of South Africa has great diversity, and Joberg was also very diverse, but not so much in Zimbabwe or East Africa.)


SOME REMINDERS CAPE TOWN IS STILL AFRICA:

1. I still walk on the wrong side of the sidewalk in pedestrian traffic, and look to the wrong side of the street before crossing. (but this isn't just my problem in Africa, but all countries where cars drive on the left side!)

2. Our waiter at breakfast the other morning was also eager to know if we had any laundry we needed done, b/c he'd take the clothes home, wash & return them to us the next day for a small fee (much cheaper than the hotel's laundry charges).

3. Wildlife encounters -- yesterday we visited Boulder's Beach and had close encounters with penguins who have to be the cutest, funniest little things on the planet! So great to watch them waddle and hop! The colony of penguins arrived there in the 1980s, and no one knows where they came from or how long they'll stay!

4. The curse of "just now" still gets you here in Cape Town! "Just now" is something you never want to hear because it means you're going to be waiting for a while! As when we were awaiting delivery of our rental car the other morning, and they said it'd be coming to us "just now." After another 90 minutes of waiting around our hotel room we called back and cancelled the car for that day!

5. We've had the occasional sub-par tour experience, my favorite being the other day at the oldest building in Cape Town, the fort that the Dutch East India Company built for the Cape's first Dutch settlers. The tour was packed - tons of families. Our first stop was a torture chamber where the guide proceeded to talk about how folks would be suffocated to death, and how the walls are covered with scratch marks where prisoners had tried to claw their way out. Then he said with a group our size, we'd die within 10 minutes if he locked us in. Then, he turned out the light and left, closing the door behind him! Every little child on the tour immediately started screaming & crying at the top of their lungs, even many adults were in a panic, running toward the door, etc. It was so ridiculously unnecessary we couldn't do anything but laugh. The second stop was another torture chamber, and some of the little kids didn't even want to go inside. I felt so sorry for this one little boy inparticular, whose parents didn't seem to get that he was being scarred for life, and just drug him into the next room where the tour guide actually acted out and described in detail the horrific torture methods. We didn't continue on to the third stop on that tour! :)

6. Slow jams! The popularity of sappy old love songs, and Celine Dion in particular, has been consistent all over the continent!

7. But the real way to tell you're still in Africa, is simply to look up at the big beautiful sky! It's just as majestic down here!

Mere

Sizing Things Up!

Ally's neighbor, Grace, is also vactioning in Cape Town right now! Grace is a 29-year old Tanzanian who works in Kampala with the UN's High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). She's a lot of fun, and we all met out for a yummy dinner a few nights ago.

Among other topics, we discussed female body image in Africa. She was telling us the Western obsession with breasts is completely lost on Africans, and that they think it's absurd that women have their breasts surgically enlarged. She said the worst, most insulting thing you can say about a woman's body is calling her a "figure 9" -- large on top, stratight and small on the way down. That's the WORST insult you could say about a woman's body!

The best body shape is called the "figure 6," and it's just the opposite -- small on top, and curvy & big on the bottom. Butts are everything, she said. In Tanzania, they even sell padded panties for ladies looking to enhance their bottoms! I guess they think our padded bras are just as funny!

Yes, Grace also had funny Angelina Jolie stories, as Angelina does her UN volunteer work with UNHCR. Interestingly, when I asked if Angelina's beauty translates in Africa, she said "No." Angelina is far too skinny and pale and odd looking. She said Beyonce is the ideal U.S. celebrity -- a perfect figure 6!

Mere

Cape Town Extremes

In the travel books, Cape Town has been described as the "Escapists' Utopia" and the "Adventurers' Playground." All so very true. But people here also take things to extremes - people here are truly living their lives with gusto. Some examples:






Here, people don't just surf or windsurf. Yesterday on the beach, most people were Kite Surfing, catching 12+ feet of air on the crazy strong surf. Fun to watch!




Here, people don't just hike, many will hike up carrying a parachute on their back, and then run and jump off the top of the mountain to paraglide around for a while before landing themselves on their favorite beach. We saw this on Christmas when we hiked Lion's Head. From the summit, we were watching these guys hanging out for quite some time -- they know how to catch the gusts of air and just hang out with the birds enjoying the views! (Yesterday was the first day our legs weren't sore after that Lion's Head hike, by the way! Table Mountain is next -- on Jan 3, once Kathleen D'Isernia, a friend from Panama City, has flown in and joined us!!!)

And then there's the diving -- people don't just dive, they dive with great white sharks! And while I'm not about to try kite surfing or paragliding, I had my heart set on the cage diving with great whites, but unfortunately I didn't pre-book, and now that we're here, all the shark boats are completely sold out! I'm crushed about it, but maybe this just frees up funds for me to try the sky diving over the Namib desert in Namibia that I've heard so many great things about! Hmmmm.... :)

Mere

YOUR SECOND CHANCE!!!

I interrupt this Africa-focused blog for a very special announcement: I'VE DECIDED TO EXTEND THE JOURNEY TO SE ASIA BEFORE RETURNING TO THE STATES, AND YOU'RE ALL INVITED TO JOIN IN THE FUN!!!




That's right. Instead of heading back to DC in late January, I'll be flying to Bangkok and launching into an 8-week tour. Current thinking is to hit Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Who's coming to meet me??? Send me a note quickly, as I'm currently plotting out my route, and would love to include you in the planning!

Everyone deserves a Sprink Break -- take yours in 2007 with me in SE Asia!!

Woo hoo!

Mere

P.S. -- For everyone in DC, please note, the happy hour scheduled for Jan 19 is postponed! My new return date is Mar 28, so perhaps the following Friday night??!!?! :)

Merry Christmas!!

What a Christmas we had!!

Started the day at a Dutch Reform church service at St. George's cathedral. It was a lot like a Catholic mass. Very formal -- even alter boys walking with incense in front of the priests! The sanctuary was beautiful -- the entire cathedral is beautiful. And the service was conducted in three languages: English, Affrikans, and Xhosa. Pretty interesting. The service closed with the choir doing a spirited rendition of "We wish you a Merry Christmas" (perhaps my favorite part!).

After church we did a lovely hike to the top of Lion's Head Mountain. It's about 600meters high, and sits next to Table Mountain, the city's most famous landmark. The views from atop Lion's Head were spectacular! We had 360 degree views of the city, its bays & beaches, Table Mnt, the 12 Apostles (beautiful mountains that follow the East Coast). And the weather was perfect -- not cloudy, not too hot, not too cold - just spectacular!

After the hike, we got cleaned up and headed down to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and caught a sunset champagne cruise on a sailboat called "Spirit of Victoria." Now that did get a bit chilly, but it was so satisfying watching the sun set next to Lion's Head from the water, having just been up on its peak!

Definitely a Christmas day for the record books, and yes, Ally, Lou & I did wear the Santa hats on the entire hike and boat cruise! Hope yours was merry & bright too!!

xo,
Mere

Out of Africa

Christmas greetings from Cape Town, South Africa!!

Ally and I arrived last night (too bad we're still waiting for Ally's luggage to arrive...but that's another story!). Tonight, her friend Lou from San Fran will join us (Lou is living in Tanzania for a year on a Fullbright Scholarship, working as a professor in Environmental Law). The three of us will call the Park Inn our home for the next week and a half, and I'm filled with anticipation for all the fun we're going to have in this amazing city.

I titled this blog "Out of Africa" because Cape Town is truly the continent's biggest exception. When looking at the beautiful mountains meeting the sea as we were flying in, I was reminded of Northern California. When walking around colorful Long St. last night with all its bars and restaurants, I felt like I was in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of DC. When peeking at the brochures on the area's wine country, photos of rolling green hills, I feel like I could be looking at the French countryside. And when looking at all the beautiful people in their Hugo Boss and Dolce & Gabana, walking around the manicured city streets with gorgeous Dutch-colonial style buildings, I feel for the first time that my cycle of 5 t-shirts and my footwear options of either my sneakers or flip flops are highly inadequate! :) Oh well! And my point is, Cape Town is a very, very different place from East Africa where I've been traveling for the last five weeks. I feel oddly indulgent being here, but I'm sure that will fade away...and perhaps too quickly, as I was humbled and blessed on a regular basis in East Africa by the amazing, joyful spirit of those who by Cape Town's material standards are living meager lives.

I'll get some photos uploaded in the coming days to share the Cape Town sights with everyone. In the meantime, I hope you all have a very lovely, rest-filled holiday.

Much love,
Mere

P.S. - Before leaving Kampala, we caught the new James Bond movie. Loved it! And it was great to see/hear the locals' reaction to Joseph Kony, the Ugandan War Lord, getting his due!

SAY CHEESE!!!

As you may have noticed, I finally found a strong enough Internet connection to do some photo uploads! WOO HOO! I went back through the entries and uploaded some of my favorite shots, even from early on in the trip, so if you have time, click through the archives (links by month on the right side), and you'll get to see some photos from the entire trip!

Am I losing my status as a luddite with all of this fancy blogging stuff???! :)

Mere

It's Beginning to Feel a Lot Like Christmas!

Finally! The Christmas spirit has entered my world! It took a while given I'm missing all of the trappings that have signaled the holiday for the past several years. Namely, enjoying marathon holiday baking with my friend Allie Bitter, feeling the crisp cool winter weather taking hold in DC, finding time either in DC or PC to create one of my signature gingerbread houses, or holiday shopping with my dear friend Eveline, who is the best bargain hunter I know (maybe tied with my mom for top honors!).

So what did it take to kick the holiday spirit into gear here in warm & sunny Kampala? It was last night's visit to Kampala Pentecostal Church (KPC) for their 22nd annual Christmas Cantata! The performance was electric with a choir of 190 adults, 12 musicians, 11 actors and 11 dancers. And Beyonce and Usher better be thankful there aren't talent scouts running around these parts because so many of the signers were top-of-the-charts material!

The opening act was sensational too -- it was the children's choir from KPC which consists of about 75 kids, all who are orphans due to both parents dying of AIDS. And they are so talented! In fact, the children's choir from KPC has a bit of fame, and regularly tours the globe giving choral performances.

So thank you to KPC for hitting all the right notes to bring me into Christmas 2006, and for doing so with more authenticity for the "reason for the season" than my baking, gingerbread houses and shopping trips have ever done!

Merry Christmas!
Mere

Monkeying Around Ladies Who Lunch!

While the horrible drive home was a bit of a downer yesterday, the first half of the day was amazing! We started by finding a Chimpanzee Tracking outfit in the remote Budongo Forest. There are no guarantees you'll see the chimps, but we were fortunate. Ally, our two guides and I had three separate sightings - each time a lone male, high in a fig tree enjoying a morning snack. It's fascinating to watch the chimps -- their heads (faces & ears) and hands are so human-like. Too bad I didn't plan in advance to secure permits to do the gorilla tracking in Uganda too. Ally has done it and says it's fantastic. Oh, and a primate fun fact I'd never noticed -- monkeys have tails, apes don't. So chimps are apes, not monkeys!

After our Jane Goodall morning, we hit Masindi, the nearest town to refuel The Beast. We had a packed lunch with us, and I noticed a sign on the gas station stating that there's a restaurant in the back, so we decided to head back there with our lunches to see if the tables were sanitary, and if we could buy drinks and have our picnic there. Boy were we ever impressed when we turned the corner. Behind this little Shell gas station was a gorgeous event space. There were wooden tables, benches with pillows, a tented area, a very friendly bar staff, the shade of several large trees, and the cutest little girl in a flowery dress running around playing. Ally and I had the space all to ourselves, and couldn't get over what a picturesque oasis it was...and then the music started playing. The staff, seeing two mazungas (white girls), popped in a Back Street Boys cd, and we swayed our way through the rest of our lunch - with Ally even getting up to spin our new little friend in the flowered dress around the dance floor! Such a random, lovely lunch! And also such a great commentary on the realities of Africa -- you just never can tell when you might stumble on a total gem. It can literally be behind the Shell station - why not, right?!

Mere

In Denial

It's true what they say, "Denial is more than a river in Egypt...". De Nile is also a river in Uganda! In fact, the source of the Nile is in Uganda at the expansive Lake Victoria, from which the Victoria Nile River flows north and joins the Albert Nile River in the northern part of Uganda, before heading into Sudan where it's called the Blue Nile, which meets up with the White Nile from Ethiopia, and then heads north as just the "Nile River" all the way up to Egypt (I heard that from a tour guide - hope I got it right!).

Anyway, Ally organized a fun excursion for us into Northern Uganda -- an area she hadn't yet explored. She drove us in The Beast up to an area called Murchison Falls National Park. It was stunning. Upon our arrival, we took a short hike to the top of the falls. The falls are a spot where the entire mighty Victoria Nile River is forced to pass through an area only 6 meters wide! The force with which the water pushes through this slot is massive. Something pretty amazing to behold. We sat there at the top of the falls feeling the spray, listening to the pounding roar, watching the explosions of waves - a real treat for the senses!

The next day one of my favorite activities was a boat ride we took on the Nile. We saw huge crocodiles, tons of hippo, some of the most colorful birdlife I've ever seen, and we also got a view of the Falls from the water. It was a lot of fun.

This is sunrise on the Nile River - pretty spectacular, huh?

Mere

Special-K

I love Kampala, K-town, K'la, the Special-K!!

It's probably because I'm with Ally doing more of a local thing vs. being on the tourist track, but this is by far my favorite big city in Africa. First, while there is a decent amount of security, it's nothing like Joberg or Nairobi, so I feel much, much safer here. It's also a lot less expensive than those other large cities. And while every country has had friendly locals, it seems especially true here. Or perhaps here, the locals have been more genuine. In Kenya & Tanzania, every local would ask the same series of questions as if they'd all been pre-programmed..."Where from? Which state? You like the weather better here?..." Going through the answers grew tiresome, and toward the end, even annoying. Thankfully I haven't faced that series of Qs here in Uganda...yet!

The city is beautiful. It's very lush & green with lots of rolling hills and peaks. And the nicer houses, built up on the hills, have almost Mediterranean style red-tile roofs that peek out amongst the greenery. The dirt is very red too, like a red clay. Again, so beautiful against the many shades of green.

Driving around the city is insane. There are around 2.5 million people here and there's ALWAYS horrible traffic. It probably doesn't help that I haven't seen a single stoplight -- not one! Ally said she knows of only two in the entire city! And once again the roads are in pretty poor shape - lots of potholes. Last night we were returning from a trip up north (total of 7 hrs driving!), and the last leg of our drive, through the city to Ally's home, should have taken about 20 minutes, but instead was a greuling 1.5 hours of bumper-to-bumper, cars coming from every direction, horrible car exhaust blowing in our faces, and just general driver's hell. Poor Ally! I would have gone ballistic! When we finally pulled into her home, she burst from The Beast and jumped into the swimming pool fully clothed!

The restaurants have been quite good in Special-K too, and the nightlife isn't bad either. The big ex-pat hangout is this Irish pub named Bubbles O'Leary. It's a crazy fun spot, and last Friday we tore it up on the dance floor to the likes of Bon Jovi, Guns-N-Roses (I thought of you Sarah Grace!!), and even the Grease soundtrack! So funny, and oddly comforting, to have those moments here in Africa!

Mere

The Incredible Allyson McKinney

Greetings from Kampala, Uganda, where I've been visiting my good friend, Ally!

Many of you know Ally, but for those who don't, I'll give you a brief history. I first knew of Ally freshman year at Florida State. One day I overheard girls in my dorm talking about how the reigning Miss Teen Florida lived on one of the floors. She did. It was Ally.

Later on at FSU, I got to know Ally as we were involved in several student organizations and associations together. That's when I discovered she was so much more than a pretty face. She is intelligent, thoughtful and very funny. She's spunky and strong. She's a good friend.

My friendship with Ally really took off in the years after college, however. I was living in DC, beginning my career, and she was in DC earning her J.D./MBA at Georgetown (Did I forget to mention she's also very ambitious??). Together with another great FSU grad, Miki, we ran around the city doing our best to live it up on meager budgets -- and we did quite well! To this day, one of my favorite road trips to NYC is the one Ally, Miki, Kristan Carrizales and I took for the Kickoff Classic game where FSU beat Texas A&M - such good times!

After her degrees, Ally moved to San Francisco and put in a few years with a big law firm. It wasn't long before she desired a career with a higher calling, however, and she found that calling in Africa. Her first trip here was a 6-month stint in Arusha, Tanzania, where she worked for the Rwandan War Crimes Tribunal. And in those months, the "Africa bug" bit her. She returned for another year at the firm in San Fran, but all the while was on the lookout for a permanent opportunity in Africa, which she found.

Ally is now the Director of the Uganda office for a Christian-based NGO called, International Justice Mission. Her focus is human rights, and she works with local governments and law officials, getting them to enforce laws that are often ignored. For example, if a man dies (which happens often with the AIDS rates here), according to some tribal customs, his family members may go and claim his house and children, leaving his wife homeless and without any posessions to her name. There are laws on the books that protect widows, but often people don't know about the laws, and so the tribal customs win out. Ally and her office will intervene on behalf of these widows and work to regain her home, children and posessions. I'm so impressed with this great work she's doing, and with her commitment to this place, Africa.

In addition to gaining a better understanding of Ally's work, it's been a real treat to see her taking charge and living a great life in this crazy city, Kampala! She drives around in a huge Land Cruiser, appropriately nicknamed, "The Beast." She lives in a beautiful home and hosts great parties, like the Thanksgiving dinner she made for 20 that I've heard so many kudos about! She speaks Lugandan (the most common local language) enough to get by with the locals. She attends a great church, is a favorite among the other ex-pats, and has made many local friends too. It has been an absolute riot to see her in action over here -- not that I would have expected anything less!

Mere

Goodwill Games

Ever wonder where the clothes you donate go? Many of them come to Africa. In fact, the little Maasai girl in the photo to the left is wearing an "I heart NY" t-shirt as her dress...I believe it was once white!

Every time we walk through or drive by a local market, it's funny to see all of the clothing vendors. They'll have stacks and stacks of second-hand clothes from the U.S. & Europe. One vendor will have all T-shirts, and you'll see Old Navy, GAP, various U.S. Sporting teams, etc. Another vendor will have all shoes, and you'll see 9-West, Nike, Adidas, even Ugs & Crocs! Another vendor might have all suits, and my favorites are the vendors who specialize in evening gowns and formal dresses!

I read a local newspaper article about the secondhand clothing trade here in Africa. It's grown in popularity and is now trickling down into smaller & smaller local markets and towns. The clothes are separated by type back in the states and packaged in huge plastic bales (t-shirts vs. pants vs. shoes, etc.). Then the bales are transported over and purchased by wholesalers for very little money at the international ports. These wholesalers then divvey up the parcels and sell them for a nice profit to the vendors at the local/regional markets, who in turn sell & trade them to the African people.

According to the article, the secondhand trade is controversial for several reasons. First is that the goods are orignially donated, so the idea that there are wholesalers making a lot of money on them has been questioned. Second is that local textile industries are being undercut and having a hard time now that the donated clothes are making it to smaller towns & markets. And finally, with the Western clothes becoming more available and accepted, there is concern of culture erosion, as fewer people bother to invest in and wear traditional tribal dress.

No matter your stance on the issue of secondhand clothing, one this is certain. Africans, even in extremely rural areas, take pride in their dress. Driving through the most remote little villages, it's common to see a man walking along the side of the road in a three-piece suit, or a group of little girls playing on the roadside in what were probably once some Americans' Easter dresses or flower girl outfits. Africans dress to impress.

Mere

Go Speedracer, Goooo!

James. Where do I begin with James. James was my tour guide in Kenya. For six days he drove us around in a minivan, or three minivans actually, as he kept destroying the vehicles with his "pedal to the metal" driving philosophy.

I suppose first I should try to explain the condition of the roads here - they're horrendous! Huge deep ruts, steep shoulder drop offs, bridges that are blown out in sections, and where there is paving, there are numerous enormous potholes. All this, and my point of reference is the rough & bumpy streets of poor ol' DC!

From the start of the trip, James' strategy was to just slam it and ram the minivan as quickly as possible along the treacherous paths. This worked for about an hour, and then we apparently had torn a hold in the radiator. So for the next couple of hours we'd stop every 20 minutes or so to collect water from whatever mud puddle we could find on the side of the road, and pour it into the radiator. Finally, at one stop, someone from the other van (who had to stop and wait for us each time) suggested we crack raw eggs into the radiator (that guy, Chris, was henceforth knows as MacGyver in my mind!). So we bought 3 eggs from the nearest Maasai village, and cracked them in (whites only). Sure enough, the eggs cooked and sealed the leak...for about 30 minutes, but after enough bumps and hits, they too came loose, and we were back on the side of the road with a smoking engine. At this point, the drivers collapsed all 12 passengers into the one good van, so with the driver we were 13!!!! And with so much weight in one car, it wasn't long before we hit a sketchy patch of road, began fishtailing between rivets, and almost flipped on one side before crashing down in one of the deep rivets. We were so deep and stuck that we couldn't even get the doors open, so we had to climb out the windows as Peter, the other driver, hit the gas with our wheels just spinning & spinning and the bottom of the van stuck, grounded on the top of the rivet. The guys all sacrificed their clean clothes and pushed from the back of the van until it was free & moving again. And by this time, we'd amassed a huge crowd from the nearby Maasai village who just watched and grinned. This was all on day one as we drove to Maasai Mara!

The next day we had a new vehicle for our game drives in the Maasai Mara Reserve, so we assumed all would be well. But then James decided to ignore all the signs about staying on the paths, and when we saw a cheetah, we were off into the fields of the Mara! We got great shots of the cheetah, but given how much rain there'd been, we also got ourselves bogged in the mud. Again, we were spinning & spinning our tires to no avail... So my fellow passenger, John, got out and he & James went around collecting sticks and such to put under our wheels for traction -- all this on a nature reserve filled with wild animals - the cheetah was even still in sight! John's wife was ready to kill him! Funny stuff!

The business of getting stuck, getting tossed around, getting bruised, breaking vans, etc. continued each day we were with James. Toward the end it was just amusing & expected.

James told us that "James" is his baptised Christian name, and that his birth name is Swahili for "bull." I think he's doing a fine job fulfilling the connotations of his birth name!

Mere

A Rose By Any Other Name...

The business names and signs in Africa have been a real treat to follow.

There is a definite desire to mimic (rip off) U.S./Western brands. Like here in Nairobi with the "Kobil" gas stations whose logo looks just like "Mobil" with the same blue & red, same font, etc. Another funny one here is the "Heltz" rental cars - same gold & black logo (and interestingly, the Swahili alphabet doesn't have an "R." When speaking English, they use the "L" sound, so for example, in a restaurant, you may be offered "cheese & clackels.") Another funny rip off was in Victoria Falls where I saw signs for the "Palm Restaurant" - same dark green color and logo as in the states, so I was thinking it may be a nice spot to have a farewell fete wtih the Overlanders...until I passed by the small, dirty building, and peered in to see dingy plastic tables and a dog running around. Needless to say, no autographed headshots were hanging on the walls.

The local business names painted on the buildings are even more fun to read. Throughout Tanzania we kept passing "House of Lubricant" establishments -- their version of Jiffy Lube! Another cute one is the "Made in Good Taste Coffee Shops" - Starbucks hasn't infiltrated yet! There was also the "Papa's Plastic Things" store we passed in rural Kenya. How I wish we could have stopped and gone in that one. And perhaps my favorite, is the "God Only Knows Grocery Store" in Zambia -- is that great, or what?!

Other funny signs have included the "No Photo-Graphing" signs posted on the UN Buildings in Arusha, Tanzania. And the "No Over-Speeding" warnings throughout Kenya. I suppose it's a given drivers will speed, they just don't want anyone over doing it (I could fit in on the roads around here!).

Mere

Paradise Found

Traveling throughout Kenya last week was amazing!!! This is another beautiful land with friendly, welcoming people.

We got very lucky with the weather. For the past month there have been heavy rainfalls, turning the countryside a lush, bright green. But we had zero rain -- just day after day of bright sunny rays piercing down from the huge, blue Africa sky I've totally fallen in love with.

The animal sightings continued to be successful here too. In fact, our first sighting in the Maasai Mara was a leopard (chui in Swahili), so yes, I've finally seen my chui, and this completes my sightings of the Big 5 (leopard, lion, elephant, buffalo & rhino). Another of my favorite sightings were the flamingos at Lake Nakuru. I love their soft pink hue, and its sharp contrast with their black beaks, and when flying the black tips to their wingspan. Very beautiful sight to catch a cluster of them wading in the lake (unfortunately, there was an equally moving unpleasant odor the closer we got, but hopefully that part of the memory will fade with time!).

I think my favorite sighting in Kenya was the mighty Mt. Kilimanjaro. We were treated with 100% clear views from Amboseli National Park in Southern Kenya. Our driver, James, said the Gods must be pleased with us because it's rare for the mountain to show itself off so clearly (it's generally under heavy cloud cover, as it was each time Julie & I were near it on the Tanzanian side!). The mountain is just beautiful - Africa's highest peak. At 19,000+ feet it is snow-topped even this close to the equator. And seeing it, I took several moments to think about all my friends who've climbed it, and how proud I am of them (Krantz, Indri, Kathleen & Mike, John & Ginny, Candace & Kelly) - wow! Maybe one day I'll return to attempt it myself.

The place we stayed in Amboseli, had Earnest Hemmingway's old hunting lodge on its grounds. Inside were photos of him with his big-game kills, photos of him with the local Maasai people, etc. And one afternoon, one of my fellow travelers leant me a copy of "Snows of Kilimanjaro" which he wrote from the lodge. It's a collection of short stories. I just read the first one - the title story. Didn't care for it much, as the main character wasn't likeable, but got a kick out of reading it there on the spot of inspiration.

Mere

With My Eternal Love and Gratitude

Upon my return to Nairobi, I learned my Grandpa Olson passed away last week.

He was a man with a fantastic interest in and understanding of the world we live in. He could describe in great detail the differences between a yam and a sweet potato, discuss the merits of an ancient civilization, chat about current world affairs, and in the same sitting, review the latest NFL or college football standings.

Throughout his well-lived life he had many hobbies and interests -- the years he & my Grandma would travel to Canada for salmon fishing season, then smoke & can their catches to share with us (yum!). The years he'd travel to Vegas to meet his friends for their private annual poker game. The years he bought several acres in Central FL, and started a small citrus farm (where I fell in love with comquats and used real aloe straight from the plant for the first time -- gooey stuff!). Plus, he was a democrat, so together we could chuckle at my dad, his son, and his Rush-Limbaugh-listening ways (we decided it wasn't his fault, that good political sense skips a generation!).

And one of his greatest legacies for me is what I'm doing now: international travel. I recall the wonder that filled my mind growing up each time a new postcard arrived from him & my Grandma. Their travels took them to faraway lands, places like China, Egypt and Ecuador. And on their biggest trip each year, they'd pick up Christmas tree ornaments for their grandkids. My international ornament collection is among my favorite possessions to this day.

So to my Grandpa, I say, thank you for demonstrating a thirst for knowledge about the world, and for showing me how to quench it. I love you, and will miss you.

Mere

Small World in Big Africa

I've been covering a lot of ground here in Africa, and it blows my mind how many times I've reconnected with people I've met (or have been able to make plans to reconnect).

1. Steve & Erin from Overlanding were able to hook up with me & Julie at Mapenzi in Zanzibar!
2. Tonya from Joberg (Rich & Liz Boorman's friend who had me & Liz over for girls night) will be in Naiobi on business travel tomorrow night, and we're going to get together for dinner here!
3. Last night on the plane, I sat next to Rose, a woman my age who is a Doctor in Kampala, Uganda. She's Ugandan, and when I told her the dates I'll be in Kampala visiting Ally, she invited the two of us to attend her church's Christmas pageant. Said it's a huge show, and that the choir from her church is very well known, and travels the world. I have her card -- am already looking forward to it!
4. As I was saying goodbye to Rose in the Nairobi airport last night, Martin from Mapenzi suddenly appeared! He & Jean, and the two younger Brits, Shelly & Deb, were all on the same flights leaving Z-bar, and connecting in Nairobi on their way back home to London. He said they all heard my voice bellowing down the corridor and looked at each other and exclaimed, "I don't believe it....Meredith is here!" So I got to say another farewell to the four fun Brits from Zanzibar before leaving the airport last night -- so funny!
5. While in the spa at Victoria Falls, I met Kristen, a gal my age who recently grew tired of her life in DC, resigend her job working for the Commerce Dept, and moved to Zimbabwe for a 6-month stint with a non-profit (sound familiar??). Turns out, she has plans to be travelling in Cape Town the same time Ally, Lou & I will be there, so I have her number, and will call her so we can all hook up!
6. While at Mapenzi, three different groups of nice South Africans gave me their contact info, and encouraged me to call them when I'm back down there if I want to stay with them for a while -- SO NICE!

Anyway, I'm getting a kick out of the small world run-ins, and hope they continue!

Mere

"No" Definitely Gets Lost in Translation

Africans in the hospitality industry never want to say, "No." I've asked so many questions where "no," was clearly the appropriate answer, but that's never quite what I got. Some examples:

Speaking with Mudi, our Tanzanian safari driver:
Mere: Mudi, is that a hawk up in that tree?
Mudi: Yes, or maybe it is really a Tawny Eagle...

Speaking with Georgie-Boy, my favorite bar tender at Mapenzi:
Mere (while reading the drinks menu): Oh yummy -- may I have a margarita George?
George: Yes! But I have no tequila. Would you like gin, vodka or whisky in it?
Mere: Oh no! Make it a mojito instead.
George: No problem! We have no mint though -- it's okay, right?
Mere: Oh George! Please just give me a beer. Thanks!

Speaking with hotel front desk clerk:
Mere: May I use the phone to make a local call to confirm the time of my airport transfer pick up?
Clerk: Yes.
Mere: Excellent.
Clerk: But the phones are down.
Mere: So I can't make a local call right now?
Clerk: Yes, but the phone doesn't work.
Mere: Hmmmmmmm......

Speaking with a store clerk:
Mere: May I please buy a small bottle of water?
Clerk: Maybe you want a big bottle.
Mere: No thanks. I just need a small one right now.
Clerk: But maybe a big one is better for you.
Mere: Do you have any small bottles of water?
Clerk: Yes, but maybe only later.
Mere: A big bottle of water it is!

These are just tiny examples...but it happes a few times every day. Lots of creative use of the word "maybe" vs. someone actually correcting me or giving me a definitive "no" about anything. Funny stuff!

Mere

My Honeymoon with Julie Ita!

Greetings from Nairobi! Arrived safe & well last night! Now to catch up on the last few days in Zanzibar...

After our first night in Stone Town, Julie and I checked into the luxurious all-inclusive Mapenzi Beach Club (Mapenzi means "Love" in Swahili). I'd never done the all-inclusive resort thing before: get a wrist band at check in, never leave the property, have unlimited access to activities (archery, aerobics, volleyball games, pool & ping pong tables, snorkeling equipment, etc.), a huge staff on hand to meet every need, a bar within arm's reach at all times, fresh towels waiting whenever you need one, nightly entertainment on the "main stage," etc. It was sorta like being on a cruise ship, and definitely felt like a place built for honeymooners. Thank goodness, Jules and I met far more PLUs than honeymooners!

Our first big adventure was a snorkeling trip. There were four other guests on the boat, all Brits, who later told us they were less than pleased when they learned "two Yanks" would be joining their boat. Thankfully, they also told us we won them over and changed their impression of "Yanks"....whew! The first pair was a spunky older couple, Jean & Martin. They have three grown kids, and were an absolute riot -- drank us all under the table! The other pair were single girls our same age, Shelly & Deb, and we all had so much fun together. Although Jean and Martin still insist I am the loudest person they've ever met, and swear they've never heard anyone actually talk through a snorkel while under water before....OOPS...guess I was scaring off the fish! :) After we returned to shore, we made camp at the beach bar and enjoyed some beers together. Around 3 or so, Jules and I headed off to grab a bite of lunch...the Brits decided to make it a "liquid lunch" day, and stayed at the bar!

After lunch, Julie and I met a rowdy group of six young South Africans, and joined their fun game of Poker Dice. We wound up staying with them through dinner, and then we all tore it up on the dance floor (the evening's entertainment was a great band)...all the while, the four fun Brits were still in the bar! :)

The next day, my two favorite Overlanders, Steve & Erin, joined us at Mapenzi (they'd continued on an Overlanding truck from Vic Falls, and had just arrived in Zanzibar). I was so glad it worked out that we could all see each other again -- we have so much silly fun together, and Jules could finally meet these people I'd been telling camping stories about. We had a great afternoon on the beach, and after a somewhat odd Massai tribal performance, we tore it up on the ping pong table -- watch out!

I can't say that much about our time at Mapenzi was uniquely "African," but it was a great beach holiday with many fun new friends who I know Julie and I will stay in touch with in the years to come!

Mere

P.S. -- For those who know Julie Ita, ask her if she knows how to swim next time you see her! :)